Do Little Things

Hard to believe it, but the end of 2016 is fast approaching. For one reason or another, the end of a calendar year always jars me a bit. I think it reminds me of how quickly time goes by. Society surely likes to put on the pressure with all this talk about "New Year Resolutions". I've never been one for things like this, however at this current point in my life there are some things I'd like to change/improve upon. So world, it looks like I'll be joining you in these "resolutions". In some ways it is like I'm dooming myself to fail. The number of these New Year Resolutions that go uncompleted is through the roof, but I feel that I just need to be realistic. Bigger is not always better. That is why I am setting some small goals for myself this year to help improve my life. 

Here they are:

1. Blog about things other than Israel. No need to worry. Israel and I are still madly in love, but I realize that I have so many thoughts about other things and I need a venue for that. The solution to this: Amy & The World: A peak into my brain. This is a separate blog for posts about anything else I feel like writing about. 

2. Call my parents and email both of my grandmothers at least once a week. You'd think with all this modern-day technology that easily facilitates long-distance communication I'd be in touch with my family all the time. Wrong. Life gets in the way, I am tired, I am distracted. <--Those are all excuses. I want to do a better job at keeping up with the people I love. (Tim, if you are reading this, we can also have a weekly call...)

3. Reinvigorate my social activity. To be honest, to me this feels like a big thing, but that is half the problem. I need to address the issue of my dying (already dead?) social life in small bites. I've tried a lot of things in the last year, so I'm really not even sure what exactly I'm going to do in this category. Whatever I end up doing, I'm at least going to put it in my awareness as something I need to solve. 

4. Be outside more. I have a great apartment with a large, comfy bed. It is tempting, especially when I'm tired, to just hole up in there all day, every day. But this is unhealthy! I live in a country that is generally full of sunshine; and sunshine equals happiness! Mindy is sure to appreciate this one. 

5. Improve my Hebrew. No, I'm not going to do another Ulpan. I simply don't have the time/resources for that. But it doesn't matter! I LIVE IN ISRAEL! The world is my Ulpan. I am going to make an effort to "break my teeth" in Hebrew more often instead of giving up and switching to English, because practice makes perfect. 

Good luck to anyone thinking about taking on a New Year's Resolution! My advice? Think smaller. 

Goodbye, Mr. Peres

I feel a bit guilty. Yesterday the Knesset was open for the public to pay their respects to Shimon Peres. I wanted to go. But I didn't.

Yes I have excuses. I was working all day and didn't get home until past 9pm. (I now know they extended the hours until 11pm, a fact I discovered much too late.)

But is this enough? Here is this great man, a man I'd say was ahead of his time or at least many in his generation, who dedicated his life to the great venture of Israel. And here is me "too busy" to make it to the Knesset, which sits in Jerusalem, to pay my respects. Thousands of Israelis traveled from all over the country to come. I sat in an office half an hour away the whole time.

I guess I feel guilt because I actually feel sadness about president Peres' passing. I remember during my first trip to Israel I went to the opening ceremonies of the Maccabiah (the Jewish Olympics) and got so excited that Shimon Peres was there. (See the photo.) I got to hear him speak and it was my first time to the country! I was enchanted. This man helped build this place. He also was an integral piece of several important political events in Israel. (Here is a really short, informative video on the life of Shimon Peres.)

Part of the sadness I feel is the fact that Peres was the last of the original founding figures of this country. I feel like, although his tenure as prime minister and president were finished, something about him being alive held us all accountable to the foundational spirit of Israel. Now that they are all gone, what is stopping us from losing sight of their vision? My generation makes me nervous. So many things that should be important don't seem to matter, and on the opposite side we seem to be concerned with things we need to learn to let go.

Mr. Peres, you'll be missed and thought of often and fondly. You were certainly a visionary and inspirational figure in Israel, and even to many around the world. May we continue your legacy of innovation and continue to seek peace and growth. May your memory be a blessing.

"If you will it, it is no dream" –Theodore Herzl

I've been feeling a bit guilty lately. Why? Because I don't think I'm giving myself enough credit. If I can't be my own personal cheerleader then who in the world can? So right now I'm going to talk a little bit about how I've achieved one of my biggest Aliyah goals within my first year of being here.

I am so excited to announce that I am the new Marketing and Communications Manager for Masa Israel Journey. Guys, this is really kind of my dream job. I am working for a huge piece of the Jewish Agency who's goal is to provide Jewish young adults with meaningful, real Israel experiences. Not only am I working for them, but my specific job is to tell their story, our participants stories, using my creativity and experience. I hoped that when I made Aliyah I'd someday be working in a position like this at an organization like this but I honestly thought it would take at least 2-3 years.

Sorry not sorry, I'm majorly patting myself on the back right now because I feel that sometimes (a lot of the time!) during this Aliyah process I beat myself up. I feel bad for not having been able to save any money still, I sometimes question my friendships and think I'm more alone than I am, wonder why I haven't explored Israel since I've been here, why I haven't been to the Kotel to pray...the list goes on.

The reality is that I'm doing so well and I sometimes need to sit down and just appreciate it. It is stressful and it is hectic and there are days/nights of tears, but 9 months is not a long time. It feels like a long time. You can incubate a baby in the womb for 9 months, but when that baby comes out it doesn't know how to speak or walk or do virtually anything. That is because 9 months is just not a long time (and other scientific reasons I'm sure, but that is really beyond the point).

So I haven't saved money yet. Establishing a life anywhere is a huge commitment, monetary and otherwise. My friends here are really great. We have only known each other for 9 months (or less) and I need to keep that in mind. Our connections are still being built and strengthened and regardless, the love they've shown me is beyond this short time-frame. I haven't traveled Israel because I'm living here! Hello, Amy! You are not a tourist and now you are living real life. You'll get to see all the beautiful Israel you love soon enough. The priority right now is building your new life.

And there is time—so, so much time.

Amy the Zionist

This past month or so has been Israel's holiday season. Just as around Christmas and New Year's Eve in America people here are in a frenzy as we approach our string of high holidays (holy days): Rosh HaShanah (the Jewish new year), Yom Kippur (the day of atonement), Sukkot (the festival of tabernacles), and Simchat Torah (celebration of reading the entire the Torah). Stores have sales, decorations for Sukkahs line store aisles, arrangement for meals with family and friends are made; as one can imagine it is a joyous and exciting season for a Jewish State.

Unfortunately it is not just flowers and rainbows. As with anything in Israel things are complicated. The past few weeks have been full of unfortunate headlines. Jews want to visit the Temple Mount, where the Al Aqsa Mosque sits, aggravating the Islamic extremist population and thus causing increased violence. There are several reports of stabbings, shootings and molotov cocktail throwing. This morning I woke up to see that two parents were shot and killed in front of their 4 young children. How sad to attend funerals when we should be attending holiday parties.

This week Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu (Bibi) addressed the UN. He spoke strongly about the nuclear threat of Iran, the difficult and stagnant peace process with the Palestinian Authority, and about Israel and the amazing nation it is. I will admit I'm not extremely happy with the current coalition government. When I voted for the first time as an Israeli I did not expect this outcome. We have many problems here, social and economic, that need to be fixed on top of our struggles of being the odd man out in the Middle East. But Bibi's speech at the UN rang true to me and inspired me to think about my Zionism. Despite these issues in Israel I will always remain a Zionist. I will always support Israel's right to exist as a refuge for Jews from around the world and it's right to defend itself from the seemingly never-ending evil that threatens it. 

Almost 2 years ago I was applying for my Masa program and I wrote a short essay for a scholarship about what it means to be a Zionist today. After watching Bibi's speech I went back to read it and I really want to share it with you all:

     In his address to the First Zionist Congress (1897), the great Theodore Herzl said, “Zionism, or self help for the Jews…is simply a peacemaker. And it suffers the usual fate of peacemakers, in being forced to fight more than anyone else.” With the current state of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict and the nature of today’s global politics, this statement seems to define the experience of present day Zionists. I have personally been forced to fight for Zionist ideals on my college campus. Just as the forefathers of Zionism saw their ideas challenged, the current campus climate in regards to Israel is one of extreme demonization. In a false co-optation of liberal, progressive values, both students and faculty call upon others to boycott Israel, and falsely claim Israel is committing genocide and apartheid, and pursuing a policy of ethnic cleansing.
     As a Zionist student, I have been yelled and cursed at while handing out fliers about the 800,000 Jewish Refugees from Arab states. I have been harassed and photographed without my permission on campus at department-sponsored anti-Israel conferences, been called a racist, colonizer, and Islamaphobe, and watched trains featuring maps attempting to rewrite Jewish history run through the center of campus. I have even been told I was not allowed into student events simply because I support the Jew’s fundamental right to self-determination.
     The reality is that Zionism is the belief that the Jewish people of the world have a right to self-determination: the right to a place to call home and a national culture of their own. Throughout history the Jewish people have been denied this right, persecuted, expelled, and discriminated against by foreign powers. Although the most obvious manifestation of this dream is the creation of the State of Israel, I believe that Zionists have also become defenders of basic human rights and democracy, and a hope for peace among humanity. Israel is the only Jewish nation in the entire world and the only true democracy in the Middle East. Israel has made great strides in medical, technological, and environmental innovations, and is home to more start-up companies per capita, has more Nobel Prize winners per capita, and has the highest number of university degrees per capita than any other country in the world. It is one of the first nations on the scene of any natural disaster and even sends food, fuel, and medical supplies into the West Bank and Gaza Strip. I would never try to convince anyone that Israel is a perfect nation. I do not believe Israel, or any country, is perfect, and I understand that there are issues within Israeli society and political policy that need to be addressed.
     Thus my conclusion is this: As Zionists today, our job is to not only to continue to carry on the legacy created by the great original Zionist minds, but also to defend the fact that the Israeli people are amazing, intelligent, and driven, and in effect, their country at only 65 years old is responsible for some of the most amazing developments in the world. We must remind the world that the Jewish people have the same right to self-determination as all other people and spread the truth that the State of Israel remains a beacon of light among the nations.

So hello, my name is Amy and I am a Zionist. In case that was not clear, here it is now. I am very unsure about several things in my life, but this is simply not one of them. If it bothers you then that is a personal problem. If you have questions about it, please ask me. 

On Tuesdays We Vote

After only a little over two months in this country I've already taken part in one of it's most amazing aspects—it's democratic process. Some fun facts about Israeli Democracy:
-Israel votes on a Tuesday because in the book of Genesis it is written twice on Tuesday (the 3rd day) that "this was good".
-This is going to be Israel's 20th Knesset (name for the Israeli Parliament)
-Israel has had one female Prime Minister—Golda Meir from 1969-1974
-The Israeli Parliament has 120 seats and a party must get at least 3.25% to sit in the Knesset
-On voting day you go to your polling place, are given a little blue envelope and are invited to go behind a little blue booth. Behind the booth are a selection of little slips of papers, each with the symbol of the participating parties. You choose one slip, seal the envelope and drop it in a blue box.

The election system here is much different than in the US because the style of government is different. Israel has a single chamber parliamentary system, with a Prime Minister (PM) and many more parties than the US. Essentially how it works is you get to vote for a single party. Each party then has a list of people who will sit in the Knesset (name for Israeli Parliament) depending on the percentage of votes they get. For example, Israel's current PM Binyamin (Bibi) Netanyahu, is part of the Likkud party, the party with the highest percentage of seats in the latest Knesset.

The PM is not necessarily the head of the party with the most seats, although they have always been. Once the elections are over each of the parties who qualified to sit in the Knesset go to the President and recommend who they think should be the PM. The President then appoints the PM and gives him/her a time limit to create a coalition. The purpose of the coalition is for the sitting government to function. In the US we have 2 parties, one is always the majority and the other the minority. One needs 61+ seats in the Knesset to have a majority and it is nearly impossible for any single party to receive this high number of seats. Thus, the appointed PM must invite different parties to be part of what is called "the coalition" (essentially the majority party).

The system is a bit complicated to understand initially, so you can imagine how difficult it is to choose who you want to vote for. Do you vote for a larger party in order to influence who will likely become the next Prime Minister? Or do you vote for a smaller, fringe party because you want them to have a significant presence in the coalition? Will the party you want to vote for likely make it into a coalition led by a given PM? So many questions. On one hand the dynamic nature of the Israeli Political systems makes it engaging and fun, but it also makes it challenging to know what choices to make. I personally enjoy it very much and feel so privileged to participate in the only Jewish Democracy in the world! If you're interested in who I voted for and why, feel free to ask me!

Terminology

My grandmother recently emailed me a conversation between her and one of her cousins regarding the current situation in Israel and the growing anti-Semetism the world is seeing throughout Europe, Canada, and even the United States. She asked me my opinion which gave me the opportunity to organize what I feel to be some very important thoughts. I decided to share them. 

CNN news segment on Europe's rising anti-semetism

First of all, we should clarify the terms "pro-Israel", "anti-Israel, and "anti-Semitism".

I always like to point out that being "pro-Israel" simply means you support the existence of a Jewish state and homeland for the Jewish people. It does not mean you have any obligation to support every one of it's policies. In fact, because Israel is a democracy it encourages you to be expressive when it comes to your thoughts and feelings about it! How beautiful is that? A second point I would like to make is that being "pro-Israel" does not mean being "anti-Palestinian". You can support Israel's right to exist and at the same time support a healthy livelihood for the Palestinian people and the establishment of their own state. I myself am both strongly "pro-Isreal" and "pro-Palestinian"; I fully support a peaceful two-state solution in which the Jews and Palestinians each have their own states with their citizens taking advantage of full democratic rights. This opinion sometimes puts me at odds with certain Israeli policies in areas such as settlement construction and the power of the Orthodox rabbinate in the government, but it does not make me any less "pro-Israel". The terms "pro-Israel", "pro-Palestinian", and even "pro-peace" are not mutually exclusive.

To be "anti-Israel", or more often referred to as "anti-Zionist", is to deny Jewish people their right to self-determination. This is a right promised to all peoples (Palestinians included) by the UN. If you take a look at your average anti-Israel or anti-zionist activist they are against the State of Israel, either in it's entirety or simply as a Jewish state, but they have no problem with the over 50 Islamic states throughout the world. Furthermore, they protest against what they will call Israel's "human rights violations" when Israel is the only state in the Middle East where populations of Christians, Muslims, and Jews are constantly growing, and there are equal rights for women, gays, and the like. However, they are silent about the ongoing persecution and targeted genocide against Christians throughout the Middle East, the violent civil wars in Syria, Sudan, etc, or a number of other atrocities being committed throughout the world. 

This brings me to "anti-Semitism". "Anti-Semitism" is defined as hostility or prejudice against Jews. If you look at the current protests happening in Europe, Canada, and even the United States, they are dripping with anti-semitism. I'll begin with the protest I went to in Portland as an example (a small window into my personal experience). There I saw signs supporting Hamas - an organization whose literal existence, as outlined multiple times by it's charter, calls for the extermination of the Jews. One very popular sign and chant I saw and heard in Portland, and you are almost guaranteed to see/hear at any of these protests, is "from the river to the sea, Palestine will be free". This slogan is speaking of the Jordan River and the Mediterranean Sea, calling for a Palestinian state to replace the currently existing Jewish state of Israel. This directly denies the Jewish right to self-determination while calling for the Palestinian right to self-determination. That is a prejudice against the Jews and that is anti-semitism. 

Aside from any of the double-standards being expressed against Jews, the protests around the world have turned into violent gatherings targeted at synagogues, Jewish businesses and establishments. Who is to say that the Jews in each of those synagogues or businesses is related to Israel in any way? There are plenty of Jewish people (sadly, in my opinion) who do not support the existence of Israel, or Jews who are not happy with Jewish policies regarding the present situation and many others. Targeting them, especially in this violent way, just because they are Jewish is anti-semitism.

Survivors

I'm sitting here about to go into my 2nd shabbat since my return and many have asked me how it feels to be back in the US. Honestly, my body might physically be in the US but my mind and soul are very much still in Israel.

For the last 11 days Israel has been engaged in Operation Protective Edge, a military operation they began due to an escalation in rocket fire coming from Hamas controlled Gaza. In those 11 days over 1,500 rockets have rained down on Israel's citizens and the IDF has called up over 70,000 reserve troops. Yesterday Israel officially launched a ground invasion into Gaza to destroy Hamas' tunnel systems being used to transport weapons.

My stomach churns with nervous feelings and uneasiness for the safety of my friends (really my Israeli family) and the IDF soldiers now deep in battle. My dad calls it "survivor's guilt"—Why is it that I am able to fly away to the US and escape all of the terrors of this war? Well, I've decided that this term in inaccurate for two reasons. 

First, "survivor's guilt" implies that the Israelis are not going to survive, but I know they will. I'm reading the book "Like Dreamers", by Yossi Klein Halevi, about the paratroopers of the 1967 (6 day) war. As was the case in many of Israel's wars, the soldiers went in hoping to merely survive, but instead they conquered. This war, similar to many others in Israel's history, should serve has harbingers of hope. We are strong and even when it looks like we maybe should lose hope, we don't and we survive. It is impossible for me to feel any kind of "survivor's guilt" — all Israelis are survivors, not just me.

Secondly, this concept of "survivor's guilt" also implies that I've escaped. Yes, I am no longer facing the threat of being hit by a rocket. Code red sirens no longer serve as my alarm clock (although my Red Alert app sure goes off a lot). Now I'm confronted with a different type of threat—that of the western media's hypercritical tendencies towards Israel. I read articles comparing Gazan and Israeli death tolls (over 100-1), failing to report the fact that the Israeli government does everything in it's power to keep it's citizen's safe (Iron Dome Defense Missile System that is 90% effective, bomb shelters and safe rooms in every structure) while Hamas publicly encourages it's citizens to stay in harms way and ignore IDF warnings (leaflets dropped, phone calls, text messages, warning shots fired, and door to door notification) to evacuate areas hours before. I see CNN news corespondents calling residents of southern Israel "scum" for sitting and watching bombs go off across the border (not an activity I endorse, but nonetheless) but neglecting to say a word about Hamas' strategy of hiding it's weapons caches and terror operatives in schools, mosques, hospitals and other civilian infrastructure, literally using it's citizens as human shields. I watch as the UN, France, and even President Obama tell Israel it has the right to defend itself, but to do more to prevent civilian deaths. What more do you propose Israel does?!

So no, I do not have "survivor's guilt". Instead I feel the pain of battle all the way from America. I do what I can from here by posting the truth about the situation on social media and praying for my fellow Israelis and IDF soldiers, but it is difficult to be so far away from someplace that feels so much a part of you. I suppose it will take time to adjust, but right now all I want is to be back as soon as possible, despite this less than favorable situation. 

If you have questions about Israel's current situation, or Israel in general, please feel free to ask me. I'm always open to discussion; in fact, I encourage it! And please, keep Israel in your thoughts and prayers.

#BringBackOURBoys

I know I said that on Yom Hazikaron and Yom Haatzmaut I truly felt like an Israeli, but I was wrong. Last night I went to a rally in Rabin Square for the 3 missing Israeli teens. I had prepared a blog post about it this morning and when I came home this evening to finish it I found out that this afternoon their bodies were discovered.

"Naftali Fraenkel, Gilad Shaar, and Eyal Yifrach were kidnapped on the night of June 12 at a hitchhiking post outside the settlement of Alon Shvut in the Etzion Bloc south of Jerusalem...The bodies were found at about 5:30 p.m., bound and partially buried, in an open field in a hard-to-access area known as Wadi Tellem near Halhul. The site is less than 20 kilometers (12 miles) from where the teens had been abducted." — Times of Israel, Hamas will pay, says PM after body of kidnapped teens found 

Yesterday I witnessed tens of thousands, myself and my friend Alex included, gather in this city square to sing and pray together for the safe return of these boys. I watched mothers hold their children, crying at the thought that those boys could be their boys or girls. I watched fellow teens pass out posters and stickers, swaying along to songs and prayers. Who knows how many of them might have known those boys personally. The Israeli President, Reuven Rivlin, and the mothers of the 3 boys addressed the crowd. Their strength in the situation was incredible and I have an idea why. They were able to stay so strong, never losing hope, because they had millions of Israelis and people around the world sending their love, thoughts, and prayers.

Unfortunately things did not go as we had all hoped. These 3 innocent boys were murdered in cold blood. Outside we may feel the blistering heat of the Israeli summer, but inside we feel the chill of this tragic event.

They chose the slogan for the hashtag campaign "Bring Back Our Boys". Last night I truly realized what that meant. They were my boys. These were OUR boys, all of ours. I sent my thoughts and prayers when my boys were missing, and I mourn with everyone knowing my boys have been murdered. We together as an Israeli nation, a Jewish nation, mourned their absence and hoped with all of our hearts for their return. And now we as a nation mourn their deaths, a murderous act of true terror. Sadly my epiphany of feeling like a true Israeli has come with such a tragedy.

More about the rally here (Times of Israel)

More about the kidnappings here (Times of Israel)

More about the Israeli Government's Response thus far (Jerusalem Post)

I HEART Tel Aviv

For the last 3 weeks I've been subletting a lovely little apartment in Tel Aviv. Having a "home base" has really given me a different experience of Israel. I really got a good deal on this apartment in an amazing location (huge thanks to Amos). I live on Bialik, which is right near Shuk HaCarmel (the Carmel outdoor market), a short walk to tons of cafes, restaurants, shops, Dizengoff Center, and the beach. I'm surrounded by beautiful bauhaus buildings, famous Israeli poet's houses, and interesting characters at all hours of the day/night.



In between adventures I spend my days exploring my lovely little neighborhood. My general routine is wake up around 12 or 1 and head out for the delicious Israeli breakfast I love. I've tried out quite a few cafes. My favorites are Cafe Bialik and Sus Etz. At Cafe Bialik I'll usually order their mini shakshouka. It's only ₪30 and plenty of food. At Sus Etz I like to get the Special Breakfast which is an open face bagel with smoked salmon and eggs on top, served with chopped vegetable salad. Yummy! This breakfast excursion can take a few hours. I like to sit, sip on some cold espresso, read or journal, and watch all the people (and sometimes talk to them). After food I explore shops, go to the market, maybe visit a museum. It just depends on what I feel like doing.

 

One of my all time favorite things about being a "Tel Avivian" is going to the beach on Shabbat! I can (and sometimes do) go to the beach any time I want, but there is something really nice about waking up, slipping into my swimsuit, grabbing a coffee and laying on the beach all day. The beach is really crowded on shabbat but it is fun. Soaking up the sun, sipping on an Aroma iced coffee and snacking on Bamba, with the sounds of Matkot (paddle ball game) and the waves in the background, I truly feel like I belong in this city. This is MY beach, near MY apartment, that I go to every Saturday. It will be a bittersweet departure from my little Tel Aviv home this weekend. But I know I'll be back and that Tel Aviv is not going anywhere.

  

Good Eats

If you follow me on Instagram and/or Twitter then you know that I post a lot of photos of my breakfast in Israel. In America, I'm not the biggest fan of breakfast foods, even at breakfast time. I'm most definitely not a breakfast-for-dinner kind of girl. Israel has changed me! American breakfast is usually carbs and sugars, like pancakes, french toast, or potatoes. And we then supplement it with eggs. In America you can also put an egg on anything and it somehow becomes breakfast. I personally think this is a terrible way to start your day. Everything is greasy and you end up in a carb-coma.

Here I want to eat "Israeli breakfast" all the time! In Israel breakfast leaves you feeling a lot more refreshed. It is usually freshly chopped vegetable salads, lots of fresh cream cheeses, delicious breads, and eggs. The eggs here taste different than they do in America. They are amazing!!! Another really delicious thing that is popular for breakfast is something called Shakshouka. Shakshouka is tomatoes and peppers and spices (and sometimes spinach or other vegetables) all stewed together, with poached eggs dropped in it. I've had the privilege of having some amazing homemade shakshouka, as well as many different versions from restaurants. Everyone makes it a bit different, but it is generally always delicious.

Possibly the most important part of (my) breakfast is coffee. I feel torn on this subject, especially because I live in Portland where they really know what they are doing. So, first of all, Starbucks tried to have a store in Israel and it failed miserably. That alone should let you know that coffee culture here is different. Instead of Starbucks, Israel's most notorious coffee shop is Aroma, and they are most famous for what is called "Iced Aroma" or "Iced Coffee". In Israel, if you ask for "iced coffee" it is ice, milk, and espresso blended. It is sort of like a frapacino, but usually sweeter and smoother because it is mixed in a large blending machine. I won't lie; it is delicious. But then if you want just iced coffee, the American way of drip-brewed coffee that has been chilled, you're best bet is to order "ice espresso" or "espresso with ice". "Iced" drinks here tends to mean blended with ice. If you don't want coffee blended with ice then you commonly order "café kar" (קפה קר), which literally means cold coffee. But this is not American ice coffee either. It is actually an iced latte.

But I digress...Despite our coffee confusions, I love Israeli breakfast! I'm definitely going to bring this to America. Call me if you want some shakshouka!

Person, Place, or Thing

Now that my travel plans are officially settled I'd like to make an ANNOUNCEMENT THAT I WILL BE RETURNING TO AMERICA 2 WEEKS EARLIER THAN I PLANNED. Yes, you read that correctly. Now, pick your jaw up off the ground while I explain a bit.

It is no secret that I've faced challenges and struggles throughout this trip. First with the luggage, then navigating myself through a foreign land with a foreign language. I have friends here (very amazing and loving ones) but I am, for all intents and purposes, here on my own. A very wise teacher once told me "Wherever you go, there you will be", and I've continued to discover how true this statement is throughout my life. Uprooting yourself from all you really know and putting yourself in a completely new environment is one of the best ways to learn this lesson. I do not wish to share the personal details of the matter here on my blog, but you should know that it is not Israel which has brought me to this decision. It is me, and only me, and this is the same me that lived in Sacramento and Portland. It is the me that I can't escape, even across the world.

I still have 3 weeks and I am going to continue to explore and experience the country. There are some things left on my list that I wish you accomplish. And now that I've settled much of my uneasiness I believe I'll be able to more fully appreciate the remainder of my time. 

Adventure Through the Ancient

Yesterday Amos and I resurrected some of our road-tripping memories from last summer and took a mini road trip in to Caesarea (קיסריה). Yet another place in Israel where the ancient and modern collide, Caesarea is a coastal city along the Mediteranean which houses ruins of Caesarea Maritima. The port town was built up around 25-13 BCE by Herod the Great and was dedicated to Augustus Caesar. Today the modern city of Caesarea is known to be one of the most expenses areas to live in Israel and is home to many well known Israelis, like Bibi Netanyahu (maybe you've heard of him).

This was my first experience visiting an ancient archaeological site (other than Masada on Birthright) and I have to say it is really exciting. Like most things in Israel, I've learned about Caesarea in my Judaic Studies courses and seen many pictures of it. These places become somewhat mythological which makes stepping foot in them magical! It was truly magnificent. I can't believe that people were able to build this huge place without any of the modern technology we have. The most well known parts of these ruins are probably Herod's palace, the Hippodrome, and the amphitheater. It's amazing that they still have concerts at the theatre today.

We also visited the Ralli Museums. Past it's beautiful courtyard, one of the museums houses 6th-18th century paintings of biblical stories. The other holds a collection of mostly Latin American and Spanish art, including some beautiful Dali pieces. Sometimes I struggle with art museums, but I actually really enjoyed seeing the different interpretations of the biblical stories and I loved a lot of the abstract impressionist and surrealist styles of the Latin American/Spanish art.


These two museums are dedicated to the Spanish and Portugese Jews expelled during the Inquisition of 1492, as well as the Thessaloniki community which was almost completely exterminated during the Holocaust. In addition to ancient and holy sites, Israel also has many memorials (many of which are government sponsored). Some of them remember communities and people from long ago, and others remember people lost more recently in Israel's wars and the Intifada's. I think the concept of remembering, not just our traditions, but also each other, is a very important aspect of the Jewish culture. I really appreciate the effort and resources Israel puts into this task of remembering.

In the spirit of Caesarea and being on vacation we ended the day with some overpriced iced coffees and dinner. I can't wait until the next day-adventure!

The Red, White and Blues

Shabbat Shalom everyone! I hope you all are having a better shabbat than I am. As exciting and great as my adventure in Israel is, this shabbat I am really missing America. On one hand it sucks. No one likes to feel lonely or far away from the people and things they love. On the other hand, I've never been far enough away for long enough to truly feel like this. I've been homesick and nostalgic for California when I'm trapped in Oregon, and I've even felt pangs of longing for Portland (believe it or not) when I've been elsewhere in America. But I've never missed America.

Here is a list of a few things I'm missing here (You've been warned that some of them are silly or seemingly superficial–but I miss them all the same):

1. Being in the same time zone as everyone else (or at least relatively so)
2. Having the entirety of my closet to choose from (and occasionally my roommate's also)
3. Target (Israel, you are so smart about some things, but you somehow haven't figured out Target)
4. Excessive amounts of ice in my drinks
5. Mexican and Chinese food (and In n Out Burger, but I miss that when I'm in Portland too)
6. Starbucks
7. Cheap soy/almond milk
8. Cheap drugstore cosmetics (cheaper things in general–this place is so expensive!!!)
9. Not having cats be everywhere all the time
10. Victoria's Secret....(because all my underwears were lost with my luggage...)

I'm sorry my dear, sweet, beautiful Israel, but you are still a foreign creature to me. I'm sure by the end of this we'll be one in the same, but for now we'll have to agree to disagree on some things (like what ice coffee means).

Jerusalem, if I forget you...

5 If I forget thee, O Jerusalem, let my right hand forget her cunning. 6 Let my tongue cleave to the roof of my mouth, if I remember thee not; if I set not Jerusalem above my chiefest joy. –Psalms 137

Quite awhile ago Kelsey and I spent a really wonderful day exploring the Old City in Jerusalem. Our hostel was just a brief walk away from the Jaffa Gate, so it was easy to get there. On Birthright you are always rushing around so much and both of us were eager to return and truly explore the wonders of the Old City.

We took a walk through the Christian Quarter. It is full of these winding, tunnel-like areas, all filled with shops. The Arabs there sell all kinds of colorful, wonderful goods. The aisles are lined with scarves, art, trinkets, jewelry, etc. I had quite the time doing my best to be funny and charming in order to bargain for some good prices. I think those shopkeepers underestimated this little American girl! 

After weaving our way through, we headed for the Jewish Quarter, and more specifically the Kotel. The Kotel, also called the Western or Wailing Wall, is one of the retaining walls from the 2nd Jewish Temple, which was destroyed by the Romans in 70AD. It is the holiest place in the world for the Jewish people. I have to say, being at the Kotel is a truly divine experience. It is this thing that I've seen pictures of and spoken about so much, but being there is something unexplainable. You are there with all of these other people and you feel something very powerful, knowing that these people are also feeling something very powerful. Touching the stones, praying, and being in the center of the Jewish people literally brought me to tears. It is honestly like no other feeling. This is a special place I hope to have the opportunity to return to many more times in my life. 

Overall, the Old City of Jerusalem is a really unique and interesting place. Ancient and modern, and literally 3 religions, all converge in this one place on Earth. Where else can you see ultra-religious Jews, Muslims, and Christians walking the same cobblestoned streets as a girl like me, all while cars weave through the narrow buildings? The answer is nowhere. 

        

Bahá'í in Haifa!

About a week ago I spent a few days exploring Haifa by myself. Haifa is a coastal city located towards the northern region of Israel. It is probably most known for it's port and for being the world center to the Baha'i faith. Of course I went there to see the beautiful Baha'i Gardens. I honestly had no idea what the Baha'i faith was or why their faith center was in Israel, but I learned all of this on the great tour I took!

The Baha'i faith is a monotheistic religion of Persian origin. In 1844 a man they refer to as The Bab announced that the coming of a new messenger of God was coming. This messenger was Baha'u'llah, who is recognized as the official founder of the Baha'i faith. The Baha'is believe that he is the next prophet in the line of ancient prophets of the people of the book (Abraham, Moses, Jesus, Muhammad) and they recognize the previous prophets. They have a lot of interesting views on humanity, it's progress in  modernity, and global togetherness. Just google it and see for yourself! 

The Baha'i Gardens themselves are built around the tomb of The Bab. According to my tour guide, he was executed for heretic activity in Iran and was not permitted any formal burial. His followers kept his remains for many years and he was buried in Haifa because Baha'u'llah was eventually exiled to Acre (עכו) in 1868, thus the amazingly beautiful gardens. The tour I took began at the top, taking us down over 700 steps to just outside the sanctuary of Bab's tomb. You are not allowed to enter the temple unless you are of the Baha'i faith.

Taste the Rainbow

16 And the [rain]bow shall be in the cloud; and I will look upon it, that I may remember the everlasting covenant between God and every living creature of all flesh that is upon the earth.'17 And God said unto Noah: 'This is the token of the covenant which I have established between Me and all flesh that is upon the earth.' (Gen 9:16-17)

I'm having trouble blogging (and even journaling personally for myself). I don't get much time alone, which isn't so bad when you're surrounded by really amazing people, and my brain seems to be tired taking everything in all the time. But I am having many, many thoughts about this place and so I'll slowly try to organize them for you over the next week or so. Here it goes.

A common misconception about Israel is that it is just this giant desert with people riding camels and bombs going off. This could not be further from the truth! A large part of Israel is the Mediterranean coast, the wild drivers of Israel are oddly reminiscent of the ones in San Francisco, and the only bombs I've seen/heard were across the border in Syria. In school Israel is often visually represented with the classic black and white photos of Ben Gurion decalaring independence or the paratroopers recapturing East Jerusalem in the 1967 war. I of all people love these photos and all they stand for, but I have to say they are hugely inaccurate at representing the reality of Israel.


Israel is not a desert or a black and white photo. Israel is a rainbow!  It is a rainbow of street art and the knick knacks for sale around every corner. You'll find everything from kippot (Jewish skull caps) and mezzuzot (traditional Jewish door post hanging) to hats and sunglasses. Israel is the burnt oranges, reds, and siennas of the shuk's (outdoor market) spices and the rocks of the mountains, the pinks and purples and yellows of the flowers, the green of the IDF soldiers strolling the streets and the date palms lining the mountainsides, and the blue of the seas and the waving flags. And of course there are the people; the people come in all kinds of colors. When I ask Israelis how they are all so good looking they say "Because we are all mixed. Russians, Egyptians, Iraqis, Poles, Hungarians– mixed people are the most beautiful". As a fellow  racially mixed human being I'd like to agree with this sentiment. (Imagine how beautiful my children would be if they were Israeli!)
I'm not "rainbow-washing". This is the real deal!

YOBRO - You Only Birthright Once

Over the last few years I've heard story after story about how Birthright has changed people's lives. From June 20th–July 1st I finally got to have my Birthright experience, and I have to say it is not one that I'll ever forget. When you speak to me in person (or on the phone/skype/etc) I'll probably tell you about all kinds of struggles/complaints I have about the trip. I did have struggles. I do have complaints (as if I wouldn't). Nonetheless, the ten days I just spent zooming around Israel with a group of strangers, whom I now feel are more like family, have been extremely impactful and ridiculously fun.

FEELINGS
Entering into a new group of Jews always makes me very nervous. I feel self conscious because I wasn't raised with a lot of Jewish tradition. I wasn't bat mitzvahed, I don't know all the words to all the prayers and I don't have too many stories to share about a Jewish childhood. I'm always afraid of being "not Jewish enough". It is definitely an irrational fear because I'm almost never made to feel this way. Birthright was no exception. There were students with all kinds of Jewish backgrounds. One thing that really made me shed this fear of not being Jewish enough were the hayalim (חיילים), or soldiers, who came with us. Most of them hardly ever engage in "Jewish" activities the way American jews do. Simply existing as a Jew in the Jewish state includes plenty of jewishness. This is truly something beautiful.

Over the last year or so I've dedicated a huge portion of my time and energy to Israel. This has put a lot of ideas into my head about my Jewish faith, Israel as an idea, and Israelis as people. I have to admit that I was a bit scared that actually coming here would shatter them. Luckily, several of my experiences on Birthright have only strengthened them. Seeing the Kotel in person, touching the stones and praying  made me truly realize that my "Jewish anxiety" was nothing more than a self-constructed paranoia. I have been and always will be completely connected to the Jewish people. We are all connected by something much more powerful than any of us. Visiting Har Herzl and hearing personal stories of loved ones lost, traveling through deserts to reach waterfalls and then bustling cities, and seeing the mixture of black hats, knit kippas, and cut-off shorts all walking the same sidewalks is just something completely unique. Israel is a one-of-a-kind place with a one-of-a-kind people.

FUN
It is hard for me to describe the fun I've had (and I'm sure you're a bit tired of reading) so here are some photos.