זה להיתרות, לא ביי ביי (It's see you later, not bye bye)

So this is it. This is finally it. Tomorrow I will take myself, my things, all that I've experienced and learned this summer, and put it on a plane back to the good ole' USA. A part of me feels like this day would never come, and the other part of me is in disbelief the day is already here. Although I am not exactly sure how I feel about leaving, I do know there are some major things I will truly miss.

1) The People

To every Israeli, those who hosted me, took me places, helped me find my way, or even just spoke to me, תודה רבה רבה רבה!!! Words cannot explain the love I have for you and all of the Israeli people. And I mean all of you—Jewish, Muslim, Christian, Arab, American, Brazilian, Egyptian, Iraqi, Hungarian, Polish, Russian, etc. You're all an essential piece to this places magnificent puzzle. The first things that made me love Israel, before I even got here, were the Israelis I met in America. Being here has only reinforced my feelings. The Israeli people, literally the living, breathing force of this beautiful country, are strong, full of life, and ultimately full of love. It is both sad and amazing to me that the average Israeli I speak to does not know that their tiny country is so scrutinized in the international community. Quite honestly, it is no surprise they don't understand. They are fully aware that they live in a complicated geo-political/religious conflict, but to them they are just being Israelis. They are just living their lives as Jews, or not, in the single Jewish homeland in the world, seeking life liberty and happiness just like the majority of humans in this world. They understand that their country has it's issues, but they can't fathom how those problems became the problems of the entire world. I'm not trying to "innocence-wash" them. This is who they are, and I love them.

2) My Friends

More specific than the general Israeli population, I am really, really, really going to miss my friends here. Both old ones and new ones, you are all such blessings in my life. Accepting the thought that I don't actually know the next time I'll get to see any of you next is really hard for me. But I know it will happen. I will make sure it happens. And every moment makes me feel that it will be because I'm back in Israel sooner than you make your way to the states ;)

3) The Beach

I grew up my entire life with access to the coast and although I always felt it was beautiful and nice, it was never my favorite place. The beach here is different. In Israel one of my favorite activities of all is to lay on the beach for endless hours. The sand is soft, the water so crystal blue, and the perfect temperature. It's just warm enough to not shock you, but cool enough to still be refreshing during the hot days. The beach at night is especially magical—and in Tel Aviv you could find people seaside at all hours of the night. never before has a place's beaches enchanted me in this way. I'm really trying to mentally prepare myself for my return to the beach-less concrete jungle and grey, sunless skies of Portland.

4) Food

Although I'm craving Chinese, Mexican, and Pizza pretty intensely right now, I am definitely going to miss some Israeli foods. Obviously I'll miss Israeli breakfast. But if I want a shakshouka I can make it at home. What I'll really miss is the out-of-this-world Hummus, Pita, Falafel and Shwarma. I'm sorry America, but you have no freaking idea what a pita and hummus really are. Now that I've been exposed to the real deal I will probably have some trouble eating these things in America. I'll also miss the tasty yogurts and dairy products, the deliciously fresh cucumbers everywhere, and the tasty eggs. I swear these three things are different (and better) here.

5) History

There is a special feeling one gets when they are in a place such as Israel. This place has so much history in it's soil and it's spirit is in the air. I've really enjoyed being in this place where past, present, and future all are existing and thriving in the same space. How can Israel be home to some of the most ancient ruins and the most innovative technological developments of the future? It is just AMAZING. I can't think of another word to describe it. (Maybe magic...)

The Great Defenders

"הנני נשבע(ת) ומתחייב(ת) בהן צדקי לשמור אמונים למדינת ישראל לחוקיה ולשלטונותיה המוסמכים, לקבל על עצמי ללא תנאי וללא סייג עול משמעתו של צבא הגנה לישראל, לציית לכל הפקודות וההוראות הניתנות על ידי המפקדים המוסמכים ולהקדיש את כל כוחותיי ואף להקריב את חיי להגנת המולדת ולחירות ישראל."

"I swear and commit to maintain allegiance to the State of Israel, its laws, and its authorities, to accept upon myself unconditionally the discipline of the Israel Defense Forces, to obey all the orders and instructions given by authorized commanders, and to devote all my energies, and even sacrifice my life, for the protection of the homeland and the liberty of Israel."

Over the course of my time in Tel Aviv I visited a number of different museums. As I've said before, Israel likes remembering, and a large part of remembering is also educating. One of my favorite museums was the Israeli Defense Forces History Museum. Although it was mostly full of old tanks, guns, radios, and other war relics, the place really made me contemplate how I felt about the Israeli army. Israeli society, like most other societies, is a complex lady. She is very multifaceted (always multi-tasking), full of many opinions, many moods, many styles/ways of doing things, etc. One of my favorite characteristics of Israeli society is the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) and how it is an important piece of every single person's life (whether they like it or not). I've never been a huge fan of war/military history, except when it comes to Israel—here it is probably my favorite.

 The IDF is different from any other army in the world. Israeli citizens (excluding the ultra-orthodox and Arab populations) are required to serve–two years for women and 3 years for men. The initial reaction to this is usually some comment about how this makes Israelis inherently militant, violent, or hungry for war. If you ever meet a person who has served in the IDF (which is essentially every Israeli), you'll immediately know this is an absurd assumption. Less than 10% of the IDF is comprised of combat soldiers. Jobs range from educators to medics to social media gurus and researchers. Civil service in the community is offered as an alternative to army service. Additionally, the IDF Code of Conduct, which every soldier carries with them, emphasizes 3 values: 1)Defense of the State it's citizens, and residents, 2) Love of the Homeland and loyalty to the country, and 3) Human dignity of every human.

I've spoken to combat soldiers, people who serve in education, people who've worked in tense areas like Hebron, people who worked mostly behind desks, and even Israeli Arabs who volunteered for the IDF. From my observations and interactions I've seen the IDF serve as something that helps make Israelis have a greater value of life and of love for their family/friends. They already have the shared experience of knowing their lives are threatened everyday. Serving together and being a part of sharing the burden of protecting each other gives them another shared experience, one of true camaraderie. I've seen how it makes the kids grow up faster, whether that is good or bad. They learn to have responsibility in a controlled environment, they learn respect, efficiency, work ethics, hygiene (gotta keep that uniform clean and sharp!), and whole list of other important life skills. Of course every Israeli, every person, every soldier is different. Some have a harder time than others, but generally I see this experience having such an interesting and positive effect on the dynamic of Israeli society. I respect and value every Israeli who serves, no matter what their service might be, and I hope they respect and value themselves just as much.

I HEART Tel Aviv

For the last 3 weeks I've been subletting a lovely little apartment in Tel Aviv. Having a "home base" has really given me a different experience of Israel. I really got a good deal on this apartment in an amazing location (huge thanks to Amos). I live on Bialik, which is right near Shuk HaCarmel (the Carmel outdoor market), a short walk to tons of cafes, restaurants, shops, Dizengoff Center, and the beach. I'm surrounded by beautiful bauhaus buildings, famous Israeli poet's houses, and interesting characters at all hours of the day/night.



In between adventures I spend my days exploring my lovely little neighborhood. My general routine is wake up around 12 or 1 and head out for the delicious Israeli breakfast I love. I've tried out quite a few cafes. My favorites are Cafe Bialik and Sus Etz. At Cafe Bialik I'll usually order their mini shakshouka. It's only ₪30 and plenty of food. At Sus Etz I like to get the Special Breakfast which is an open face bagel with smoked salmon and eggs on top, served with chopped vegetable salad. Yummy! This breakfast excursion can take a few hours. I like to sit, sip on some cold espresso, read or journal, and watch all the people (and sometimes talk to them). After food I explore shops, go to the market, maybe visit a museum. It just depends on what I feel like doing.

 

One of my all time favorite things about being a "Tel Avivian" is going to the beach on Shabbat! I can (and sometimes do) go to the beach any time I want, but there is something really nice about waking up, slipping into my swimsuit, grabbing a coffee and laying on the beach all day. The beach is really crowded on shabbat but it is fun. Soaking up the sun, sipping on an Aroma iced coffee and snacking on Bamba, with the sounds of Matkot (paddle ball game) and the waves in the background, I truly feel like I belong in this city. This is MY beach, near MY apartment, that I go to every Saturday. It will be a bittersweet departure from my little Tel Aviv home this weekend. But I know I'll be back and that Tel Aviv is not going anywhere.

  

Good Eats

If you follow me on Instagram and/or Twitter then you know that I post a lot of photos of my breakfast in Israel. In America, I'm not the biggest fan of breakfast foods, even at breakfast time. I'm most definitely not a breakfast-for-dinner kind of girl. Israel has changed me! American breakfast is usually carbs and sugars, like pancakes, french toast, or potatoes. And we then supplement it with eggs. In America you can also put an egg on anything and it somehow becomes breakfast. I personally think this is a terrible way to start your day. Everything is greasy and you end up in a carb-coma.

Here I want to eat "Israeli breakfast" all the time! In Israel breakfast leaves you feeling a lot more refreshed. It is usually freshly chopped vegetable salads, lots of fresh cream cheeses, delicious breads, and eggs. The eggs here taste different than they do in America. They are amazing!!! Another really delicious thing that is popular for breakfast is something called Shakshouka. Shakshouka is tomatoes and peppers and spices (and sometimes spinach or other vegetables) all stewed together, with poached eggs dropped in it. I've had the privilege of having some amazing homemade shakshouka, as well as many different versions from restaurants. Everyone makes it a bit different, but it is generally always delicious.

Possibly the most important part of (my) breakfast is coffee. I feel torn on this subject, especially because I live in Portland where they really know what they are doing. So, first of all, Starbucks tried to have a store in Israel and it failed miserably. That alone should let you know that coffee culture here is different. Instead of Starbucks, Israel's most notorious coffee shop is Aroma, and they are most famous for what is called "Iced Aroma" or "Iced Coffee". In Israel, if you ask for "iced coffee" it is ice, milk, and espresso blended. It is sort of like a frapacino, but usually sweeter and smoother because it is mixed in a large blending machine. I won't lie; it is delicious. But then if you want just iced coffee, the American way of drip-brewed coffee that has been chilled, you're best bet is to order "ice espresso" or "espresso with ice". "Iced" drinks here tends to mean blended with ice. If you don't want coffee blended with ice then you commonly order "café kar" (קפה קר), which literally means cold coffee. But this is not American ice coffee either. It is actually an iced latte.

But I digress...Despite our coffee confusions, I love Israeli breakfast! I'm definitely going to bring this to America. Call me if you want some shakshouka!

Person, Place, or Thing

Now that my travel plans are officially settled I'd like to make an ANNOUNCEMENT THAT I WILL BE RETURNING TO AMERICA 2 WEEKS EARLIER THAN I PLANNED. Yes, you read that correctly. Now, pick your jaw up off the ground while I explain a bit.

It is no secret that I've faced challenges and struggles throughout this trip. First with the luggage, then navigating myself through a foreign land with a foreign language. I have friends here (very amazing and loving ones) but I am, for all intents and purposes, here on my own. A very wise teacher once told me "Wherever you go, there you will be", and I've continued to discover how true this statement is throughout my life. Uprooting yourself from all you really know and putting yourself in a completely new environment is one of the best ways to learn this lesson. I do not wish to share the personal details of the matter here on my blog, but you should know that it is not Israel which has brought me to this decision. It is me, and only me, and this is the same me that lived in Sacramento and Portland. It is the me that I can't escape, even across the world.

I still have 3 weeks and I am going to continue to explore and experience the country. There are some things left on my list that I wish you accomplish. And now that I've settled much of my uneasiness I believe I'll be able to more fully appreciate the remainder of my time. 

Adventure Through the Ancient

Yesterday Amos and I resurrected some of our road-tripping memories from last summer and took a mini road trip in to Caesarea (קיסריה). Yet another place in Israel where the ancient and modern collide, Caesarea is a coastal city along the Mediteranean which houses ruins of Caesarea Maritima. The port town was built up around 25-13 BCE by Herod the Great and was dedicated to Augustus Caesar. Today the modern city of Caesarea is known to be one of the most expenses areas to live in Israel and is home to many well known Israelis, like Bibi Netanyahu (maybe you've heard of him).

This was my first experience visiting an ancient archaeological site (other than Masada on Birthright) and I have to say it is really exciting. Like most things in Israel, I've learned about Caesarea in my Judaic Studies courses and seen many pictures of it. These places become somewhat mythological which makes stepping foot in them magical! It was truly magnificent. I can't believe that people were able to build this huge place without any of the modern technology we have. The most well known parts of these ruins are probably Herod's palace, the Hippodrome, and the amphitheater. It's amazing that they still have concerts at the theatre today.

We also visited the Ralli Museums. Past it's beautiful courtyard, one of the museums houses 6th-18th century paintings of biblical stories. The other holds a collection of mostly Latin American and Spanish art, including some beautiful Dali pieces. Sometimes I struggle with art museums, but I actually really enjoyed seeing the different interpretations of the biblical stories and I loved a lot of the abstract impressionist and surrealist styles of the Latin American/Spanish art.


These two museums are dedicated to the Spanish and Portugese Jews expelled during the Inquisition of 1492, as well as the Thessaloniki community which was almost completely exterminated during the Holocaust. In addition to ancient and holy sites, Israel also has many memorials (many of which are government sponsored). Some of them remember communities and people from long ago, and others remember people lost more recently in Israel's wars and the Intifada's. I think the concept of remembering, not just our traditions, but also each other, is a very important aspect of the Jewish culture. I really appreciate the effort and resources Israel puts into this task of remembering.

In the spirit of Caesarea and being on vacation we ended the day with some overpriced iced coffees and dinner. I can't wait until the next day-adventure!